Mint x Tromsø Ski Guides Arctic adventure week, northern Norway

Backdrop’s Melissa Brandner joins Mint Snowboarding and Tromsø Ski Guides just for day one of their annual arctic splitboard adventure trip - and wishes she could have stayed for the other seven days…

Day 1 - Vengsøya island, in the Tromsø archipeligo

Monday’s in the Arctic - beautifully sunny, and perfectly still on the fjord... Yeah, right. They say that we get four seasons in a day in the north but this winter, Monday’s, like most other days, seem to have instead been victim to a garage-full of winter storm cycles, heavy snow and gale force winds followed by pouring rain.

Luck was with us this Monday though! The weather did actually start out with that aforementioned incredibly still Arctic morning. And not only the sea was calm - driving to the port I locked eyes with a reindeer in a herd, it’s beady eyes tracking me for a while before nonchalontly getting back to munch on the tufty grass.

At the port, the Mint and TSG crew were full of energy, all smiles - two leading ladies who have both made waves in the ski industry with their businesses: Tammy Esten for starting Mint Snowboarding, the first snowboard school in France, and Merrick Johnston for creating Tromsø Ski Guides the first woman-led guiding company in Norway. Today, coming together to run the week-long Arctic Splitboard adventure, in this remote island archipeligo.

On the mountain they are boss-ladies too and having known Merrick as a friend, for the last half a decade, I knew that everyone was in for a treat during this week’s adventures.

The fun began that morning on the ferry from Skulsfjord, on the island of Kvaløya, just north of Tromsø, across to Vengsøya, an island further north again (you get the idea - there are lots of islands, lots of ‘north’). Vibes were high - there might, ahem, even have been some dirty dancing, involving bananas, on the deck - and we were brimming with anticipation on this first clear day after months of storms. In the deep, clear, waters were the waving arms of seaweed and herds of seastars. As you lift your eyes to the surface, and then horizon, the mountains climb towards the sky and 360 degrees all around, revealing our target for today, the beautiful alpine peak erupting out of the ocean atop Vengsøya.

Off the ferry, we started through idyllic Norwegian houses, across their farm fields which in the summer would be overun with potato bushes. Getting across a river required us to help each other hop across slippery, mossy rocks. Heading up into the woods the mountain rose up above the trees, and we could finally see the beautiful lines that were awaiting for us up there. Time to gather and test our avalanche beacons, under Merrick’s instruction.

The tour followed a ridge up, with the ocean and hundreds of tiny islands down to our right. Aquamarine waters and white sand circling their coastlines. The spirits were high in the group even though the wind was picking up, though we were sheltered from the brunt of it thanks to the route that our guides had chosen. As we got higher and more exposed Merrick showed us the ‘brace position’, to help with strong gusts - a bit different from ‘brace position’ on a plane, here, you have one foot forward and one back and you lean into the wind, strong like a warrior. She also suggested yelling at the wind and a chorus of roars erupted from the group. Being as ready as you can for wind-gusts is a vital splitboard touring tool in our arctic toolkit - with the exposure to the ocean we get some pretty brutal storms that seemingly whip up out of nowhere.

Climbing higher, the wind grew stronger yet. Kick turn by kick turn, we finally reached the last traverse, fifty metres across some heady exposure, with that strong wind buffeting us. One by one, we made it across to regroup on more sheltered four-by-two metre step, with 100m drops on either side and the sharp alpine ridge disappearing into the distance.

It was time to take in the view for a moment, before the climb to the summit - exposed to the elements with nature’s beauty taking our breath away in every direction.

Onwards. Scrambling and bootpacking, Merrick pushed our crew to the limits of their comfort zones, her confidence and experience lifting everyone through their fear. Standing on the summit I could feel the angst of the group dissolve and the huge smiles return - we had made it, and now it was time for some fun!

We climbed down to a col and looked into the couloir that we would be dropping into. Rock walls to our left and right, and a convex rollover to start. There was an epic-ness about the setting, like something out of Tolkein. Merrick disappeared down first and then radioed up, you could hear the excitement in her voice as she called one after the other of the crew to drop, with Tammy and I bringing up the rear. I couldn’t wait to to make powder turns down a steep line again, and it was just as magical as I’d imagined. There were a few shark attacks - hidden rocks that bite the base of your board - and that kept me focused but otherwise it was technical and exciting. There were high-fives’s all around as as looked back up at our lines.

Our next route was another steep one, so we zigged and zagged up, some of the crew slipping in places with the steep technical kick turns. It was incredible to watch the others progress, some not having as many days on a splitboard as I’ve been lucky enough to, but I could see their their skills growing with every turn. When you’re in the right environment surrounded by the right people, progression can be so rapid, it’s inspiring.

Our ride down was creamy and delicious. Time was up for the day though, so down we continued, weaving in and out of the trees and making a dash for the ferry to take us back to Kvaløya.

On Kvaløya, we went to our incredible “house boat” basecamp. A glorious three-story floating abode, in a fjord under one of the most iconic mountains in Tromsø, Store Blåmann. Piling in around the dining table, we reminisced about our day’s adventure, before retiring and being gently rocked to sleep.

For me, the next day meant going back to my day job, whereas the rest of the group had another 5 days ahead of them. But getting back to work wasn’t half bad - it was calm and flat again for the ferry to the mainland and the marine space surrounding us came to life - otters diving for food, fish schooling and dancing, a seal on its commute. The magic of Norway showing its finest, from summit to sea.

This was just one day of many epic adventures the Mint x TSG crew can offer - I highly recommend this arctic experience, not only because of its magical location but, no matter the weather conditions, Tammy and Merrick will make it unforgettable, from getting you to the edge of you seats to disco party shreds down the mountain. They have an unparalleled energy which really reverberates through the group. They are so experienced but they also know how to have a really good time. Merrick will push you beyond your limits and you will level up in our back yard.

Hope to see you up here in the arctic next season!

How to

Sustainable Travel in Norway - Unfortunately, there are no trains that go as far north in Norway as Tromsø, however there are direct flights from most cities in Europe, with SAS, Norwegian, Easyjet, British Airways, Airfrance and many more. For more information head to visittromso.no