Touring the Huts of Verbier
There’s something strange about being here! It’s night, but the near full moon is lighting my way, the fresh snow is still clinging to the needles of the pines we pass, looking like slim ghosts standing guard over the slopes above. It’s been a long time, too long, but I’m finally back in the mountains, and what better way than to reintroduce myself to an old friend than a night time skin.
We left the Verbier valley floor around dusk, leaving the bustle of the train station and car park behind, soon swallowed by the darkening forest. The only noise is that of conversation, which soon drops as the path steepens. It’s been almost two years I’ve been away from the mountains in winter, locked in the UK by policy makers and a pandemic which has affected us all. It’s such a first world problem to feel aggrieved at not being able to ride a snowboard, when others have suffered so much (I understand their loss as I buried an Aunt to COVID, and those close to me lost loved ones too), yet, as a splitboard junkie, the joy of being back in the skin track is immense and I can’t wipe the smile from my lips.
Three hours of skinning led our small group to the Cabane Brunet, where the guardian greets us with an open bottle of local red, and a broad grin, which was soon followed by deep bowls of fondue and jeers as the first piece of bread - overloaded with cheese - falls back into the communal bowl.
The merriment of a mountain hut dinner reminded me of how much I’d missed my snowboarding friends during the last couple of years but once the snoring started I remembered that even a return to the hills doesn’t come toll free.
My first morning back in the mountains is an early one, and a quick bread, cheese and coffee breakfast is followed by a slap in the face of a brisk Alpine chill, as we leave the hut before the sun has risen above the peaks to our east. Quickly we gain height, warming ourselves by possibly starting too fast, but the sun is soon visible and at least one side of our bodies are warmed.
Even with the early start, we make slow progress, due to trying to catch the perfect light for photos, and what with one of our crew flying a drone for a film he’d been commissioned to make. But for me the Rogneux summit was never really a goal, more of just an idea. I was content just to be on an empty mountainside, surrounded by fresh snow and blue skies. Time beat us and we gave up on the Rogneux and instead headed for an untracked ridge line, and some of the sweetest first turns of a season ever.
We’d gained good height over the two skins and rode soft snow for about 1600m of vert, the last section being a forest track which turned into a bit of a boarder-cross.
A quick taxi ride and we were back into the Verbier lift system, which while easy on the legs wasn’t anywhere near as much fun as the skinning had been. A swift ride down some groomed pistes and we were at our next overnight hut. After the solitude of the previous night the Cabane Mont Fort felt packed - it’s on the piste and is a day time restaurant, there must have been a hundred people drinking and eating the most delightful raspberry tarts in the sunshine, with a glorious view across to the Cabane Brunet.
The highlight was when around 16:30 a dreadlocked lady stuck her head out of the serving hatch and told everyone to more or less piss off as the pistes were closing. We of course, as overnight guests, had the pleasure of watching everyone clip in and bugger off, while we sat in the dimming light watching the peaks around us turn a multiple hue of reds while drinking mulled wine from our now private terrace.
A rustic dinner of mushroom rösti was followed by a near silent night, as I’d managed to blag my own room. Again, it felt good to have a head start on those down in the village as we set off on deserted pistes before boot packing up and into the Rock Garden, a playful slack-country zone of rollers, open pitches and of course rock drops. I had to cut my riding short as I had a session booked at Verbier’s very cool climbing gym, and a podcast interview lined up with Xavier De La Rue.
Switzerland, and Verbier in particular, isn’t cheap, and yes, you can have a Michelin-starred dinner while supping expensive wine thinking of the next 10K watch you’re going to buy, but in its defence the catered huts were reasonable and you can always grab a pizza and a can of beer without needing to re-mortgage your grandma’s house.
How Do I?
Cabane Mont Fort Prices start from 52 Chfs/£42 pp room only and 92 Chfs pp/£74 on Half Board. If you join the Swiss Alpine Club prices (from 80 Chfs/£64 per annum) start from 26 Chfs/£21 per night.
Cabane Brunet Half-board is Chfr. 80/£64 a night for adults
Ski Touring Guide -les Guides de Verbier, Richard Michellod (+41 79 431 16 07)
Train - The Swiss Transfer Ticket covers a round-trip between the airport/Swiss border and destination. Prices are £131.50 in second class and £211 in first class. Return 2nd class tickets costs £44. more info at sbb.ch
For more information about Verbier visit verbier.ch
